Chromed ECU V2

 

 

Unlike V1, I won't be releasing different patches for different setups. There is 1 universal ROM now which can be tailored to your needs.

 

>> Download the RAR File Here <<

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Inside is a folder with 3 files inside. One is the Chromed ROM (.bin file), one is the definition file for the ROM (.xml file) and the other is the definition file for EVOScan. All 3 are tied together and are meant to be used in conjunction with each other. You'll find many of the features in these definition files won't work with a stock ROM or previous versions of Chrome.

 

Extract the 23862006.XML fileto:

C:\Program Files (x86)\OpenECU\EcuFlash\rommetadata\mitsubishi

 

The 23862006.bin is the ROM itself. This is the file you modify & flash to your ECU. Extract this anywhere you'd like. It doesn't matter where you put it, what you name it or how many copies you make of it.

 

Finally, the Mitsubishi MUTIII 3000GT.xml file is the definition file to convert EVOScan to work with our cars. Extract this file into:

C:\Users\USER\Documents\EvoScan v2.9\DataSettings

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Note: Sometimes there's an issue with installing ECUFlash/EvoScan. Windows 7 and Vista have a feature called UAC. It makes a duplicate copy of your program files. This means when you try to install the EvoScan and EcuFlash .xmls, the changes won’t take effect, instead the duplicate .xml will be used

 

Try this! Uninstall EVOScan and ECUFlash and don’t reinstall them in C:\Program Files. Instead install to another directory created by you. For example C:\ECUPrograms\

 

After EVOScan is installed, you'll need to install the 2.0 cable drivers. There are instructions on the EVOScan website for this.

 

 

Now open up ECUFlash and open the 23862006.bin. This file is a stock tune. If you've flash tuned your car before, you'll need to copy your tables to the new "Chromed" ROM. Sorry. I can assist with this if needed. It's a good idea to save this file under a different name. It'll still be linked to the correct definition file no matter what you name it or however many copies you make of it.

 

People need to be aware of the risks when flashing as bricked ECUs from low battery voltage is starting to become a common enough of an issue where the importance needs to be stressed. Guys should turn their stereos, headlights and AC OFF when flashing to ensure as little draw on the battery as possible. It's best when flashing your ECU for the first time to have a battery tender hooked up to ensure there's no voltage drop during flashing!

 

"This cannot be stressed enough! I used to work at a General Motors support group, and the only function of my group was to support vehicle reprogramming and the related tools. There were pages and pages of dealer bulletins related to voltage while programming. They even started requiring the dealers to buy a special $300 battery tester/charger/maintainer for use while programming." - Jeff V.

 

 

They had to buy this tool not because the technology sucked, but because the damned techs wouldn't follow the rules while programming. Then, rather than call us to see if the module could be recovered, they'd just warranty it and sometimes make the customer wait for a new part.

 

Doesn't matter if it's a GM, Mitsubishi or BMW. If you follow the rules, it will work every single time.

After the first V2 flash there are fewer changes for ECUFlash to make as you tune, thus less time is spent doing the actual flash. Less time flashing is less draw on the battery which is safer. So far nearly every bricked ECU we have encountered comes from LONG flashes with a tired battery.

 

I've already spoken to the Clone ECU manufacturers and ALL clones will be coming with V2 pre-flashed to ensure less time needed to flash as you tune.